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36. Gerry Dawes's Spain: An Insider's Guide to Spanish Food, Wine, Culture and Travel gerrydawesspain.com

"My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's culinary life. . .” - - Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019; Chef-partner of Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards, New York 2019

12/12/2022

A Taste of Madrid, Western Spain (Castilla y León and Extremadura), Andalucía & La Mancha Tour With Acclaimed Spain Expert & Author Gerry Dawes and Santa Fe Star Chef James Campbell Caruso May 3 – May 14, 2023


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Note: I just returned from a 3,500 kms. trip in October 2022 around Spain, half of which was in areas we will be visiting.  I have added some very attractive features to this itinerary.  
 

 Chef-owner Fernando Hermoso with langostinos de Sanlúcar at Bar Bigote in  Sanlúcar de Barrameda.
 
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Join a Spanish Adventure Designed, Organized and Guided by Acclaimed Spanish Gastronomy, Wine & Culture Expert Gerry Dawes, Premio Nacional de Gastronómía (Spanish National Gastronomy Prize) & James Beard Journalism Awards Finalist
 
Author of Sunset in a Glass:
Adventures of a Food and Wine Road Warrior in Spain
 

 
 Food and Wine Road Warrior Gerry Dawes in Burgos, Spain.
 
James Campbell Caruso with Sunset in a Glass at La Boca.  
Photo by Douglas Merriam.
 
"Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's culinary life.  He has connected with all manner of people working at every level and in every corner of Spain.  I’m always amazed at this reach.  You can step into a restaurant in the smallest town in Spain, and it turns out they know Gerry somehow.”--Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee, Chef-partner, Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards, New York.
 
 With  Santa Fe Chef James Campbell Caruso, 
Chef-owner of  La Boca Tapas Restaurant, Santa Fe, NM 
 


Click on the title above to see the full itinerary.
 
 * * * * *  

May 3 – May 14, 2023 (11 days, 10 nights) 
 
 Madrid and Its Vibrant Tapas Scene, Magical Segovia, Magnificent Roman Ruins, Jamón Ibérico, Extremaduran Cheese, Non-Gavage Foie Gras and Goose Ham, Sephardic Sites, Andalucian Seafood, Moorish Palaces, Sherry & Don Quixote’s La Mancha Tour of Spain

Including the great cities and towns of Madrid, Segovia, Ávila, Salamanca, Cáceres, Mérida, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Cádiz, El Puerto de Santa María, Sevilla, Córdoba, Toledo, and Chinchón


About Gerry Dawes 

Gerry Dawes is writer-photographer and author of Sunset in a Glass:  Adventures of a Food and Wine Road Warrior in Spain, who lived in Spain for eight years and has made  more than 125 trips to Spain.  He has spoken frequently on on Spanish gastronomy, wine and cultural themes and has organized and led more than twenty customized gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain.  He has shown Spain to many top American chefs such as Thomas Keller, Mark Miller, Michael Chiarello, Mark Kiffin, Norman Van Aken and many others, including U. S. Senator James Abourezk, baseball great Keith Hernandez, the Commonwealth Club of California (twice), the 61st Tactical Fighter Squadron (twice), the World Trade Center Club and the Club Chefs of NY & CT.  

In addition to being awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronómía He was a finalist for the James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava and received the 2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts retrospective piece on Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià.

"Before the golden age of food travel media, and long before Spain became the world’s most exciting food destination, there was Gerry Dawes. A walking (and eating) encyclopedia of Spanish food and culture—from tapas to the culinary innovators, from artisan winemakers and cheesemakers to the sites only the locals know—Gerry has chronicled them all.  Like few others, he continues to inspire and inform a generation of food writers, travelers, and chefs like me." – Dan Barber, Chef at Blue Hill New York and Blue Hill at Stone Barns, author of The Third Plate:  Field Notes on the Future of Food.

$4,995 per person; $5,995 (single room supplement)
Airfare not included.
available to all prospective tour participants.
 
(Also you can e-mail me at gerrydawes@aol.com and I will send you the form to download and print.) 

Itinerary
 

(B, L, D, T = Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tapas)
 

In our travels, we will be dining in restaurants specially selected by Gerry Dawes for their authenticity, quality and uniqueness and our meals will be accompanied by wines chosen by Gerry, one of the top experts on Spanish wines, to reflect the best aspects of each locale.  Participants on this trip will meet and interact with Spanish wine personalities and chefs, with whom Gerry Dawes in many cases has been acquainted for decades.  Although the emphasis will be on food and wine, there will be cultural activities and some spectacular countryside to see and photograph as well and down-time to relax and enjoy the company and camaraderie of our fellow travelers. 


Day 00, Wed, May 3 USA to Madrid

Flights to Madrid from U. S.


Day 01, Thurs, May 4  Madrid (L, T)

Arrive in Madrid, Spain's capital, where we will rendezvous at our hotel, which will be near the Prado Museum. We will allow everyone to rest and freshen up, then we will meet at 2 p.m. for lunch at a restaurant owned by Spain’s greatest cortador de jamones, Ibérico ham carver (
he travels the world demonstrating how to carve these exquisite expensive hams should be properly carved) and sample the best jamón, personally selected by this superstar personality.  This will be our first introduction to jamón Ibérico, the world's best hams from acorn-fed, pata negra (black foot breed) pigs.  The woman chef, mother of the cortador’s restaurant partner, is a great traditional cuisine cook, so jamón will just be the intro to our meal.

Florencio Sanchidrián, Spain's top professional ham carver.

After lunch, we will visit the Prado Museum with a professional guide.   


In the evening, we will stop at a couple of very special tapas places on the other side of Retiro Park. 
 
Bus driver Antonio Carrasco and our comfortable 24-seat bus from the Esteban Rivas company in Madrid.   I have worked with this company on numerous trips.  My drivers are terrific and end up being integral members of our trip. 


Day 02, Fri, May 5  Madrid – Segovia – Ávila – Salamanca (B, L, D) 

From Madrid, we will drive up into the Guadarrama Mountains to Segovia, the roast suckling pig capital of Spain and home to an amazing 2,000-year old Roman aqueduct that still crosses the city.  For lunch, we will have exceptional roast suckling pig, so tender they cut it with the edge of a plate, in a restaurant that has been a must visit for celebrities and just plain folks for decades.  


200-year old Roman aqueduct that still spans the marvelous city of Segovia. 
 

 Roast suckling pig, so tender you can cut it with the edge of a plate, at a classic restaurant in Segovia.

After lunch we will drive less than an hour to visit the amazing Medieval walled town of Ávila, then move on to spend the evening in the historic university city of Salamanca, whose Plaza Mayor (main square) is the most beautiful in Spain, and just sample an order of tostón, roast suckling pig with crackling skin and other non-pig regional specialties.  


 The amazing Medieval walled town of Ávila.

We will being staying at a hotel near the southern approach to the city’s famous Roman bridge over the Tormes River.  We will walk  across the bridge and up into old Salamanca.  (You may recognize the Plaza Mayor square in Salamanca from the 2008 movie Vantage Point.)
 
Outdoor cafes in la Plaza Mayor in Salamanca.

Day 03, Sat,
May 6 Salamanca – Guijuelo – Hervás – Cáceres – Trujillo (B, L, D)

We will spend a little time in the morning seeing some of Salamanca and visiting the market, then head south through the major pig town of Guijuelo, where we will stop to visit  one of Spain's top jamón Ibérico producers, then travel south, stopping off to visit historic Hervás (an old Jewish town), then arriving in the monumental medieval city of Cáceres, where we will have late lunch and sample the sensational local Torta del Casar  and Torta de la Serena ewe’s milk cheeses.  


 Gerry Dawes at one of the top jamón Ibérico produces in Guijuelo (Salamanca).

After lunch we will take a walking tour of the old quarter of Cáceres, before moving on to the important nearby hilltop town of Trujillo, hometown of Pizarro (conqueror of the Incas) and Orellana (the first European to make the 2400-mile trip down the Amazon).  Trujillo has a major cheese fair every year in May and producers here make great goat cheeses, including Ibores. In Trujillo, we will take a break from pig and have some roast goat and try other regional specialties. 


Statue of native son Francisco Pizarro, conquistador of Peru, in the Plaza Mayor of Trujillo.


 Storks originating in Africa are ubiquitous in Extremadura.

Day 04 Sun, May 7
Trujillo – Montánchez – Mérida (Roman ruins) (B, L)

What an exciting day we have in front of us! After a walk around picturesque Trujillo, the next stop is Montánchez, an incredible hilltop town, where we will sample the prime hams from this village and visit a hermitage with stunning views. 


We will move on to Mérida, one of the best-preserved Roman cities in Europe. The Roman bridge across the Guadiana River, a superb amphitheater and arena, the Raphael Moneo-designed Roman Museum and the well-preserved remnants of this important Imperial city are scattered all over town. (One shop in this city has the figure of a Roman Centurion whose shield is an Ibérico ham.) 


 Roman theater in the monumental Roman legion town of Mérida.


 Roman bridge over the Guadiana River in the monumental Roman legion town of Mérida.

We will stay in a lovely converted palace on the main plaza in Mérida (excellent evening lollygagging territory) and within an easy stroll of all the major Roman ruins. At a local restaurant, for lunch we will sample traditional Extremaduran specialties, including more local cheeses and different grilled cuts of pork from Ibérico pigs.


The afternoon and evening will be free to relax, tour the Roman monuments, the Rafael Moneo-designed Roman Museum, stroll across the river on a pedestrian-only Roman bridge and sample local tapas in the restaurants around the plaza and amongst the Roman ruins in the old quarter.
 
Day 05 Mon, May 7 Mérida – Villafranca de Barros Pallares (Eduardo Sousa Farm) -  Jabugo – Sevilla (B, L, T)
 
We will leave Merida in the morning, first stopping off to visit the cheeseworks of Quesería Tierra de Barros in Villafranca de los Barros and sample an excellent Torta de Barros, a superb ewe’s milk cheese that is the equivalent of France’s Vacherin Monte d’Or. 
 
Cristina Mangas Durán, one of the owners of Quesería Tierra de Barros, producer of the splendid Torta de Barros ewes' milk cheese, in Villafranca de los Barro (Badajoz), Extremadura.  
 
Torta de Barros cheese, one of several distinguished cheeses from Extremadura. 
 
 
 
La Patería de Sousa, artisan producers of paté de foie gras since 1812.
  
After visiting Quesería Tierra de Barros, we will travel 45 minutes through the Extremaduran countryside to Eduard Sousa Farm, which no gavage (forced feeding) methods for fattening ducks and geese to produce foie gras are used. (Chef Dan Barber has written about this place extensively).   At the farm, we will have a lunch of foie gras and arroz con ganso (a special rice dish cooked with goose).
 

 Eduardo Sousa feeding his geese at his farm near the village of Pallares. 

Kay Balun, Gerry Dawes and Eduardo Sousa at lunch at Eduardo Sousa Farm, June 14, 2021. 

Grilled foie gras at Eduardo Sousa Farm.
 
After lunch, we will ride a little over an hour to Jabugo to visit a major jamón Ibérico producer, tour the secadero, have the curing process explained to us and sample fresh cut Ibérico products.   Our final stop for the day is Sevilla, the magical city of Carmen and one of the most beautiful and evocative cities in Europe.  After checking into our hotel, we can relax until early evening when Gerry Dawes will lead a walking tour of this stunningly pretty city where he lived for nearly six years.  We will sample tapas in a few places, then sit down in a particularly good tapas bar for some grilled shrimp, fried fish (an Andalucian specialty) and other special dishes, including, no doubt, a plate or two of Ibérico ham.  

  
La Giralda, the wonderful former Moorish minaret that is now the bell tower of the Cathedral of Sevilla.

After the tapas tour, there will be the option of going to an authentic tablao for a flamenco performance.



Flamenco dancer in Sevilla, a city where Flamenco is a way of life.

Day 06 Tues, May 8 Sevilla (B, L, D)

We will have breakfast at a very special place in the Macarena district, then walk through parts of old Sevilla on the way to an optional guided tour of the Cathedral and the Moorish fortress-palace El Alcázar, the Barrio de Santa Cruz (the old Jewish quarter), do some strolling and shopping, have lunch al fresco in the old quarter and have the afternoon free to shop, stroll or relax.  

El arco de la Macarena, Sevilla.

 

The great Sevillano breakfast at Bar Plata (facing the Arco de la Marcarena), mollete con jamón serrano y tomate (bun with air-cured ham and fresh tomato), café con leche, gazpacho with ice cubes and a cucumber slice and fresh-squeezed orange juice.

In the evening we will have dinner in the Barrio de Triana overlooking the Guadalquivir river, with the Torre del Oro, Cathedral and other monuments across the river dramatically lighted as a backdrop. 

Sevilla from Triana.

Day 07 Wed, May 9 Sevilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda -  El Puerto de Santa María - Sanlúcar de Barrameda (B, L, D)

In the morning we will travel south to the superb fishing port and Sherry town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, where Columbus set sail on his second voyage to America.  We will prevail upon one of Gerry’s friends to open his centuries-old Sherry bodega and let us taste some of his exceptional manzanilla Sherries, then we will have an early light seafood tapas luncheon at a beachfront restaurant with more manzanilla, grilled shellfish and some of the best fried fish in the world.  

 

 

Gerry Dawes with his long-time friend, owner Javier Hidalgo, at Bodegas Hidalgo, producers of the famous La Gitana Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

In the afternoon, if we have good weather, we will cross the river on a ferry and ride in authorized vehicles for a tour of on of the world’s greatest wildlife sanctuaries, el Coto Doñana. 

Flamingos in the Las Marismas marshes around Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

In the evening, we will take a 20-minute ride to El Puerto de Santa María for dinner at the sensational Aponiente Restaurante (if reservations are available), where Chef Angel León is doing some of the most creative, innovative, seafood-based dishes anywhere.   

 

 

Ángel León, who bills himself as "El Chef del Mar," Chef of the Sea, cutting seafood charcutería at his three-star Aponiente restaurant in El Puerto de Santa María.

After dinner, we will return to Sanlúcar for an optional nightcap and an end to the evening.

Day 08 Thurs, May 10 Sanlúcar de Barrameda – Cádiz - Barbate – Bolonia - Sanlúcar de Barrameda (B, L)

This morning we will return to El Puerto de Santa Maria and take the ferry to the exceptional sea-surrounded city of Cádiz, tour the town, enjoy the sea views and visit the colorful market.  Our bus will pick us up in Cádiz and we will ride down the Atlantic coast and have lunch in Barbate at one of the great fish and almadraba tuna restaurants in Spain.  After lunch, we will visit the archeological site where the restoration of the ruins of the Roman fish factory town Baelo Claudia at Bolonia is ongoing.

 

The archeological site where the restoration of the ruins of the Roman fish factory town Baelo Claudia at Bolonia is ongoing.

After lunch, we will drive back to Sanlúcar and have the evening free until we gather at the hotel at 7:30 p.m. and walk 5 minutes to Bajo de Guia beach to watch the sunset with glasses of Manzanilla Sherry in hand.  After the sunset has faded into its lovely pastel backdrop, the rest of the evening will be free to have tapas in one of the dozen good seafood restaurants along the beach. 

Langostinos de Sanlúcar (the town's renowned prawns) on the beach at sunset at Sanlúcar de Barrameda. 
 

Day 09 Fri, May 12 Sanlúcar de Barrameda – Pueblos Blancos – Ronda – Córdoba (B, L, D)

We will leave Sanlúcar in the morning and drive east through the spectacular Pueblos Blancos, the white hilltop villages of Cádiz and Málaga provinces, to the spectacular city of Ronda, which is set astride a 300-foot gorge that splits the town in two.   We will visit Ronda, have lunch in a special restaurant in front of Ronda's 18th-century bull ring, then depart for Córdoba.


 Zahara de la Sierra, one of several  spectacular Pueblos Blancos, the white hilltop villages of Cádiz and Málaga provinces.


 
Bridge spanning the 350-foot deep gorge that splits the town of Ronda in two.
 
After lunch, we will explore parts of old Ronda, then ride on to the splendid city of Córdoba. We will wander the labyrinthine streets of the old Jewish and Moorish quarters, one of Spain=s finest old quarters, have some free time for shopping.  Córdoba, in its illustrious past was one of the great capitals of the Moorish world (rivaling Damascus).   We will tour the Mezquita (once one of the great Mosques in the world, which is so huge that it has the Christian full-sized cathedral built into the middle of it), and the impressive Roman bridge over the Guadalquivir River.   We will also visit the restored synagogue.  
 
 La Mezquita, the Mosque at Córdoba, whose illustrious past as one of the great capitals of the Moorish world (rivaling Damascus).   We will tour the Mezquita (once one of the great Mosques in the world). 

In the evening, we will gather in the lobby of or hotel, then take a short walk to a very special Cordoban restaurant where we will have fried eggplant strips along with two kinds of salmorejo (a thick gazpacho that is at its best here).  We will also sample the excellent jamón Ibérico from the up-and-coming Pedroches ham region north of Córdoba, then churrasco (grilled pork loin) or steaks and some good red vinos.  After dinner, we will have the option of seeing in a flamenco performance in an old Cordoban house.


  Dinner at a very special Cordoban restaurant, where we will have fried eggplant strips along with two kinds of salmorejo (a thick gazpacho that is at its best here).

Day 10 Sat, May 13 Córdoba – La Mancha – Toledo – Chinchón (B, L, D)

 

  

The windmills and castle at Consuegra in La Mancha.

In the morning, we will head for La Mancha, land of Don Quixote, stopping briefly in some Quixote villages along the way, then arrive for a very special lunch at a spectacular site overlooking Toledo owned by a famous chef Gerry Dawes calls the “Emperor of Toledo.” Our lunch will be accompanied by wines from the exceptional vineyard on the property.

 

 

 Chef Adolfo Muñoz with Gerry Dawes at Cigarral Santa Maria overlooking Toledo.

 

Toledo from El Cigarral de Santa Maria.


 
Santa Maria la Blanca, the stunning former synagogue in Toledo.

After lunch, we will visit the historic city of Toledo for a couple of hours, see El Greco’s home and the great former Jewish synagogues, then ride about 45 minutes east to the enchanting town of Chinchón, where we will check into a charming hotel just a block from Chinchón's legendary Plaza Mayor, one of Spain's best restored and loveliest plazas, which is like a page out of the 16th Century.  Our group will have the rest of the afternoon free to explore this magical village and shop for unique local items. 

After touring Toledo, we will ride about 45 minutes to the enchanting city of Chinchón, where we will check into a charming hotel just a block from Chinchón's legendary Plaza Mayor, one of Spain's best restored and loveliest plazas, which is like a page out of the 16th Century.  Our group will have the rest of the afternoon free to explore this magical village and shop for unique local items. 

We will have our farewell dinner at La Balconada overlooking the charming Plaza Mayor. At this romantic restaurant, Chef Manuela and her husband Isidro, offer superb classic Castilian dishes, including more pig (roasted) of course, but with the option of having roast lamb, wood-grilled steaks, bean dishes, fried potatoes with "broken eggs," artichokes cooked with jamón Ibérico bits, bean dishes and other specialties, accompanied by simple D.O. Madrid (province) rosado and red wines. We can linger over snifters of the town=s famous Anis Chinchón licor (dry or sweet), watch the peregrinations of the people down in the plaza and reminisce about the high points and comedic episodes of our trip around Spain.


 
Entrance to La Balconada Restaurant, which overlooks the charming Plaza Mayor of Chinchón and serves great traditional Castilian food.


Like a page from of the 16th Century, Chinchón's legendary Plaza Mayor is one of Spain's best restored and loveliest plazas.

Day 11, May,  14 Chinchón – Barajas Airport – USA (B)

We will leave Chinchón in the morning for a 45-minute ride to Madrid airport to arrive in time for our travelers to catch their flights back to the USA.
 
Tour Terms and Conditions sheet & Reservations Form 
available to all prospective tour participants.
 
(E-mail me at gerrydawes@aol.com and I will send you the form to download and print.)
 
* * * * * 
 
 Constructive comments are welcome and encouraged.
 
If you enjoy these blog posts, please consider a contribution to help me continue the work of gathering all this great information and these photographs for Gerry Dawes's Insider's Guide to Spanish Food, Wine, Culture and Travel. Contributions of $5 and up will be greatly appreciated. Contributions of $100 or more will be acknowledged on the blog. Please click on this secure link to Paypal to make your contribution.
 
Text and photographs copyright by Gerry Dawes©2021.  Using photographs without crediting Gerry Dawes©2021 on Facebook.  Publication without my written permission is not authorized.
  
 
* * * * *
  Shall deeds of Caesar or Napoleon ring
More true than Don Quixote's vapouring?
Hath winged Pegasus more nobly trod
Than Rocinante stumbling up to God?
 
Poem by Archer M. Huntington inscribed under the Don Quixote on his horse Rocinante bas-relief sculpture by his wife, Anna Vaughn Hyatt Huntington,in the courtyard of the Hispanic Society of America’s incredible museum at 613 W. 155th Street, New York City.
_______________________________________________________________________ 
 Gastronomy Blogs

In 2019, again ranked in the Top 50 Gastronomy Blogs and Websites for Gastronomists & Gastronomes in 2019 by Feedspot. (Last Updated Oct 23, 2019) 

"The Best Gastronomy blogs selected from thousands of Food blogs, Culture blogs and Food Science blogs in our index using search and social metrics. We’ve carefully selected these websites because they are actively working to educate, inspire, and empower their readers with frequent updates and high-quality information."  

36. Gerry Dawes's Spain: An Insider's Guide to Spanish Food, Wine, Culture and Travel


About Gerry Dawes Bio, Awards, Quotes from Famous Chefs and Culinarians and Custom Gastronomic and Cultural Tours to Spain
 

Gerry Dawes was the Producer and Program Host of Gerry Dawes & Friends, a weekly radio progam on Pawling Public Radio in Pawling, New York (streaming live and archived at www.pawlingpublicradio.org and at www.beatofthevalley.com.)

Dawes was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004, was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles & Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the 2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià. 


". . .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher, Food Arts, October 2009. 
 
Pilot for a reality television series on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
 

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