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"My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's culinary life." -- Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés of José Andrés ThinkFoodGroup, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019

"Trust me everyone, I have traveled with this man, if Gerry Dawes tells you to eat somewhere it's like Bourdain, believe it!!" - - Chef Mark Kiffin, The Compound Restaurant, Canyon Road, Santa Fe, New Mexico.

“Spain wouldn’t be as known to Americans without the stories Gerry tells and writes.” - - Superstar Catalan Chef Ferran Adrià, elBulli

"But, for Gerry, Spain is more than just the Adriàs and (Juan Mari and Elena) Arzaks. He has connected with all manner of people working at every level and in every corner of Spain. I’m always amazed at this reach. You can step into a restaurant in the smallest town in Spain, and it turns out they know Gerry somehow. I remember one rainy night in Madrid during the 2003 Madrid Fusión congress. I wanted to go to my favorite place for patatas bravas, the ultimate tapa. But Gerry had another place in mind, and I didn’t know about it. But Gerry is always right. The potatoes at his place were amazing.” - - Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019; Chef-partner of Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards, New York 2019


Food Arts Silver Spoon Award to Gerry Dawes


 Premio Nacional de Gastronomía - - James Beard Foundation Nomination (Best Wine Writing)
Premio Periodistíco Cava

Gerry Dawes's Article Medieval Riches of El Cid's City (About Burgos, Spain)
Front Page, The New York Times Sunday Travel Section

 About Blog Author Gerry Dawes, Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award)


2/27/2019

The Iberian ibex, Spanish ibex, Spanish wild goat, or Iberian wild goat (Capra pyrenaica) in the mountains around Grazalema (Cádiz)

  
* * * * * 

The Peñon de San Cristóbal towers over the amazing white mountain town of Grazalema (Cádiz).

Kay and I were traveling through the White Villages of Cádiz, on February 5th on our way to Ronda from Sevilla via Coronil, Zahara de la Sierra and Grazalema and the next day on February 6th from Ronda via Grazalema, Benamahoma and El Bosque to El Puerto de Santa María.   On the mountain roads on our way to and beyond the magical Pueblo Blanco (white village) of Grazalema, we encountered three bands of Iberian ibex, Spanish ibex, Spanish wild goat, or Iberian wild goat (Capra pyrenaica).   The first group we encountered was on the wild and curvy road that leads from Zahara de la Sierra over the Puerto de las Palomas below the San Cristóbal peak, but there was no place to stop along the road to get picture. 

 Iberian ibex, Spanish ibex, Spanish wild goat, or Iberian wild goat (Capra pyrenaica).

The next day, after a few tapas at Bar Rumores in the center of Grazalema, we drove up through hills past the source of the Guadalete River and encountered two more groups of Ibex, one behind some fenced in property, the others nearer the road (when they saw me, they bolted up a rocky hill showing their mountain climbing prowess!).

Wild Iberian Ibex mountain goats showing their climbing prowess.

At one point a female Ibex stops to urinate, at which point a buck, coming along behind her, sniffs the ground then sits down on the spot where she urinated. 



 
 ________________________________________________________________________________________  
 Gastronomy Blogs
 About Gerry Dawes

Gerry Dawes is the Producer and Program Host of Gerry Dawes & Friends, a weekly radio progam on WPWL 103.7 FM Pawling Public Radio in Pawling, New York.

  Dawes was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004, was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles & Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the 2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià. 

In December, 2009, Dawes was awarded the Food Arts Silver Spoon Award in a profile written by José Andrés

". . .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher, Food Arts, October 2009. 
 
Pilot for a reality television series on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
 

2/25/2019

Manolo Esquivias y Mari Carmen Onrubia in la Caseta de los Nietos de Don Manuel Feria de Abril, Feria de Sevilla


* * * * *

Manolo Esquivias y Mari Carmen Onrubia in la Caseta de los Nietos de Don Manuel
Feria de Abril, Feria de Sevilla by Gerry Dawes©2016

Alexandre Dumas pere wrote some fine descriptive passages about his travels in Spain in From Paris to Cadiz, including this quote, which is one of my favorites, “People talk of the glorious dreams of opium-smokers, the frenzied exhilaration that hashish can give, but I, who have studied both, assure you that neither can for a moment compare with the delirious joy of fifty or sixty Spaniards applauding a dancer in the upper room of a café in Seville!” 
 ________________________________________________________________________________________  
 Gastronomy Blogs
 About Gerry Dawes

Gerry Dawes is the Producer and Program Host of Gerry Dawes & Friends, a weekly radio progam on WPWL 103.7 FM Pawling Public Radio in Pawling, New York.

  Dawes was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004, was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles & Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the 2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià. 

In December, 2009, Dawes was awarded the Food Arts Silver Spoon Award in a profile written by José Andrés

". . .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher, Food Arts, October 2009. 
 
Pilot for a reality television series on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
 

2/19/2019

Walks with Kay in Madrid on Feb. 9 & 10, 2019


* * * * *
Kay at España Cañí tapas bar, Plaza del Ángel, 14, in the Literary Quarter (Barrio de Letras), España cañí (meaning "Gypsy Spain" in Spanish) is a one of the most often heard and stirring of pasodobles you might hear at a bullfight. It is an instrumental piece written around 1923 by by Pascual Marquina Narro (1873-1948). The song was first recorded in 1926. The images on the tiles are taken from paintings by the great Córdoban artist, Julio Romero de Torres.



Kay with the statue of the great 20th-Century Andalucian poet Federico García Lorca in la Plaza de Santa Ana, Madrid. 

 
Kay at Villa Rosa, now a flamenco show venue, but once a house of excellent repute. Madrid is famous for its tabernas, bars and restaurantes with hand-painted tiles. Villa Rosa has famous depictions of Sevilla, Granada, Málaga, Córdoba, Granada and Madrid on its exterior walls and more superb tile scenes in the interior.


Kay at the Oso y Madroño monument in la Puerta del Sol .  A bear eating the fruit of a strawberry tree, arbutus unedo, is the symbol-mascot of Madrid.


4) Kay at Kilometer Zero, the symbolic center of Spain in La Puerta del Sol. This kilometer marker is the point from which the national roads (N-1 to N-6) radiating from Madrid are measured. When you see K-323, etc. on one of the national roads, it is the distance in kilometers from this point.


The plaque is situated in front of what used to be the Post Office, the Real Casa de Correos, whose clock, according to urban legend, was the official time clock of Spain. This building now houses the offices of the President of la Comunidad de Madrid (Madrid is also a province). In any case, la Puerta del Sol is the Times Square of Spain and this clock tolls the hour at midnight to the throngs packing the plaza (and to the rest of the country) on New Year´s Eve.

The plaque was originally installed here in 1950 and, during some renovation work in 2002, it was re-installed 180 degrees, basically turned around so the map of Spain was upside down geographichally. During more work on la Puerta del Sol in 2009, the plaque was replaced again, this time installed in its original intended position.
 _____________________________________________________  

 Gastronomy Blogs
 About Gerry Dawes

Gerry Dawes is the Producer and Program Host of Gerry Dawes & Friends, a weekly radio progam on WPWL 103.7 FM Pawling Public Radio in Pawling, New York.

  Dawes was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004, was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles & Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the 2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià. 

In December, 2009, Dawes was awarded the Food Arts Silver Spoon Award in a profile written by José Andrés

". . .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher, Food Arts, October 2009. 
 
Pilot for a reality television series on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
 

2/07/2019

Sensational Lunch at Restaurante Campero, Barbate (Cádiz), Famous for its Almadraba, Tuna Round-up. Boquerones en Vinagre, Mojama de la Almadraba, Carpaccio of Zucchini, Seafood Rice and Black Rice with Basil All-i-oli, Plus 85€ per Person Almadraba-caught Tuna Tasting Menu Explained. Persistence of Memory* (Salvador Dalí) Fiver Melting Watch Awards


* * * * *
A Superb Lunch at one of the best restaurants in southern Spain, Restaurante Campero, Barbate, a town famous for its almadraba, tuna round-up.

(Barbate and neighboring Zahara de los Atunes are famous for the almadraba, the ancient annual tuna round-up, from which some of the world's finest tuna comes.)


Almadraba tiles (depicting the ancient tuna slaughter in the Strait of Gibraltar near Barbate and Zahara de los Atunes, in a bar in el Mercado de Triana, Sevilla, April 13, 2016.  Photo by Gerry Dawes©2016, Canon EOS M3.



For openers at Restaurante Campero, Barbate (Cádiz), Feb. 7, 2019, a comped tapa of boquerones en vinagre, fresh anchovies marinated in vinegar and served with Spanish extra virgen olive oil and Raf tomatoes.


Kay with her carpaccio de tapín (zucchini), with guacamole, pine nuts, Raf tomatoes, soy vinaigrette and truffles at Restaurante Campero, Barbate (Cádiz), Feb. 7, 2019.


Carpaccio de tapín (zucchini), with guacamole, pine nuts, Raf tomatoes, soy vinaigrette and truffles at Restaurante Campero, Barbate (Cádiz), Feb. 7, 2019.


Carpaccio de tapín (zucchini), with guacamole, pine nuts, Raf tomatoes, soy vinaigrette and truffles at Restaurante Campero, Barbate (Cádiz), Feb. 7, 2019.


Mojama, salt-and-air cured tuna in a style that goes back to the Phoenicians and Romans, with Marcona almonds, with Spanish Extra Virgen Olive Oil at Restaurante Campero, Barbate (Cádiz), Feb. 7, 2019.
 

Vicente Leal, the great maestro de salazones, (salt-and-air cured fish, a craft as old as civilization in the Mediterrean). at his stand in el Mercado de Abastos de Alicante, where he sliced us samples of his exceptional mojama de atún and hueva de atún


 The rice dishes we had at Restaurante Campero.


 Arroz marinero (pescado y marisco pelado), rice with fish and peeled shellfish, at Restaurante Campero, Barbate (Cádiz), Feb. 7, 2019.


 Arroz negro de atún con ali oil de albahaca, squid ink-colored black rice with basil all-i-oli at Restaurante Campero, Barbate (Cádiz), Feb. 7, 2019.


 Arroz negro de atún con ali oil de albahaca, squid ink-colored black rice with basil all-i-oli at Restaurante Campero, Barbate (Cádiz), Feb. 7, 2019.


 Guímaro, a Godello-based white wine from Ribeira Sacra, our luncheon wine at Restaurante Campaero, Barbate. 



Kay and the gentleman (I do have his name somewhere) at Restaurante Campero who took such good care of us at this memorable luncheon.

Claudia Baelo, near the village of Bolonia, some 15 miles (25 miles by car) down the coast from Barbate, was an important Roman fishing processing center, where salt-and-air cured mojama and garum, a prized fermented fish sauce, were made.



 Claudia Baelo, down the coast from Barbate, was an important Roman fishing processing center, where salt-and-air cured mojama and garum, a prized fermented fish sauce, were made.

 Important Roman fish processing works at Claudia Baelo near Barbate.


Restaurante Campero
Avenida Constitución, Local 5 C
11160 Barbate, Cádiz, Spain


Gerry Dawes's Persistence of Memory* (Salvador Dalí)  Melting Watch Awards.


The Whispering of the Tuna 

Restaurante Campero Menú de Atún Rojo Salvaje de Almadraba 2019

(We did not opt for this 85€ per person almadraba-caught tuna tasting menu--without vino--because neither of us was up to either that much tuna, nor had the appetite or the time nor wanted to pay the price, but it sure looks terrific--at least to me (Kay can do without the exotica!)

 
Chart showing different parts of wild almadraba tuna (chart not from Restaurante Campero).


Ijar, olivada y piparra
 Bluefin tuna Ijar (tuna belly), olivada and piparra.  

 
Tuna ijar o ijada, a ham-like cut of ventresca, or tuna belly (video).

Niguiri de ventresca
Sushi Niguiri rice with raw tuna belly

 Carpaccio de paladar 
 Carpaccio of palate of tuna


Paladar of tuna, photo Restaurante Campero, Chef Julio Vázquez.

 Tosta, lomo y trufa
Tuna loin and truffle toast

 Tartar de toro
Toro tuna tartare

Dados de tarantelo con ajo blanco
Cubes of Tarantelo (the slender end piece of the white loin of tuna) with ajo blanco white garlic cream


  Tarantelo (the slender end piece of the white loin of tuna) 

Usuzukuri
 Tuna sliced very thin

 Parrillada (morrillo y corazón)
Grilled loin piece just behind head and slices of tuna heart
Image result for morrillo de atun en ingles
Chart showing the location of different cuts of tuna served on the Campero menu, including Morrillo, Ventresca or Ijar, Tarantelo, Galeta, Mormo and Solomillo.  (Courtesy of cheffuri.com)
 
Ventresca con miso y mostaza
Tuna belly with miso and mustard

Galete

Tuna piece from the head (see 'galeta' photo above.)
 
Contramormo

Delicacy from the front of the tuna head

 Image result for contramormo de atun en ingles
Drawing of tuna head, showing different delicacy sections.

 

Solomillo
Loin of tuna (See photo of whole tuna with parts labeled above.)


PREPOSTRE Té verde, cítricos y frutos rojos


POSTRE  Chocolate, yuzu y sésamo negro


Bebidas no incluídas

* * * * *
  Shall deeds of Caesar or Napoleon ring
More true than Don Quixote's vapouring?
Hath winged Pegasus more nobly trod
Than Rocinante stumbling up to God?

Poem by Archer M. Huntington inscribed under the Don Quixote on his horse Rocinante bas-relief sculpture by his wife, Anna Vaughn Hyatt Huntington,
in the courtyard of the Hispanic Society of America’s incredible museum at 613 W. 155th Street, New York City.
 _______________________________________________________________________________________
 Gastronomy Blogs

About Gerry Dawes

My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's culinary life." -- Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019


Gerry Dawes is the Producer and Program Host of Gerry Dawes & Friends, a weekly radio progam on Pawling Public Radio in Pawling, New York (streaming live and archived at www.pawlingpublicradio.org and at www.beatofthevalley.com.)

Dawes was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004, was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles & Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the 2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià. 


". . .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher, Food Arts, October 2009. 
 
Pilot for a reality television series on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
 

2/06/2019

From Sevilla's Hotel Alfonso XIII to Lentejas con Chorizo: Adventures on the Mountain Roads Between Sevilla & Ronda: Feb. 5, 2019 Sevilla-Venta Los Polancos, El Coronil (Sevilla)-Zahara de la Sierra-Grazalema-Ronda


 * * * * *
Tuesday, Feb. 5 Sevilla – El Coronil – Zahara de la Sierra – Grazalema - Ronda
(Note: All text & photographs, except when otherwise indicated, are by Gerry Dawes©2019.)
 
Stuffed local wild boar's head at Venta Los Polancos, El Coronil (Sevilla province). 




Kay Balun and Gerry Dawes in the patio of Hotel Alfonso XIII, Sevilla.

At noon, we checked out of the Alfonso XIII and, because of the now very complicated traffic patterns in Sevilla, we took our luggage with us in a taxi to Santa Justa station, where we picked up our Budget (Avis) rental car and headed for Ronda via the foothills village of El Coronil, still in Sevilla province,  to Zahara de la Sierra, over the Puerto de la Palomas mountain pass to the spectacular mountain-bound white village of Grazalema, then to Ronda, where we checked into the Hotel Colon, calle del Pozo 1, Ronda.  

AVE high-speed train in the Santa Justa station in Sevilla.

On two successive days, I drove Kay through the stunning Pueblos Blancos, White Villages, of Andalucía’s Cádiz province and into neighboring Málaga to the mountain city of Ronda, once a hideout for bandoleros (mountain bandits and smugglers; see the opera Carmen).  I have been visiting these areas since 1968 and have made a score of trips through these spectacular towns that area imbedded in equally spectacular natural settings.

We left Sevilla on the morning of Feb. 5, 2019 and drove via the foothills village of El Coronil on our way to Ronda.  For lunch was looking for a restaurant that I knew from many years ago, but it was closed, so we drove on a few kilometers looking for a classic venta, one of those beloved roadside restaurants that attract people traveling through the rural areas of Andalucía and weekenders out for drives in the country.  If the venta is particulary good, it can be worry of a dedicated day trip.  

The one we found for lunch at Venta El Polancar, outside of El Coronil, was not a venta of legend, but it was cheap—just 8.5 Euros apiece—and the modest dishes we had were decently made and satisfying.    It was getting close to 4 p.m. and we were the only ones in the dining room, unless you count the stuffed boar's head mounted on the wall.


I had my long-time favorite, salmorejo, a thicker Córdoban version of gazpacho, and lentejas con chorizo, a lentil stew with chorizo, and they gave us a plate of house-cured green olives, plus I had a tall glass of draft beer.  Kay’s sopa de picadillo, a typical soup with diced ham and egg in it, and a fried fish and calamar plate did not fare as well as I did.   Total 17 Euros, plus a couple of Euros tip. 

Salmorejo, a thicker Córdoban version of gazpacho, with a tall glass of draft beer and house-cured olives.


 Lentejas con chorizo, a lentil stew with chorizo, at Venta Los Polancos.



See following posts on Zahara de la Sierra, Grazalema and Ronda.
 ______________________________________________________ 
 Gastronomy Blogs
 About Gerry Dawes

Gerry Dawes is the Producer and Program Host of Gerry Dawes & Friends, a weekly radio progam on WPWL 103.7 FM Pawling Public Radio in Pawling, New York.

  Dawes was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004, was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles & Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the 2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià. 

In December, 2009, Dawes was awarded the Food Arts Silver Spoon Award in a profile written by José Andrés

". . .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher, Food Arts, October 2009. 
 
Pilot for a reality television series on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
 
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