* * * * *
July 17 – 28, 2020
(11 days, 10 nights)
A Taste of Ernest Hemingway’s Spain
A window commemorating
Ernest Hemingway at Casa Botín, an EH favorite which figured prominently in the
final pages of The Sun Also Rises.
A Customized Adventure Designed, Organized & Led
by Spanish Gastronomy, Wine & Culture Expert / Ernest Hemingway Aficionado Writer-Photographer Gerry Dawes
Premio Nacional de Gastronómía 2003
(Spanish National Gastronomy Award)
* * * * *
With John Hemingway,
Ernest Hemingway’s Grandson
& Author of Bacchanalia: A Pamplona Story
$4,995 per person; $5,995 single supplement
(without airfare)
(All photographs, except where otherwise designated, by Gerry Dawes©2020.)
* * * * *
* * * * *
“Please
join me John Hemingway and Gerry Dawes for this exceptional trip through
Spain following the footsteps of my grandfather Ernest Hemingway. I am an expert on my grandfather’s legacy and
literature and Gerry, a decades long follower and friend of several friends of Don Ernesto, is one of the world’s top experts
on Spanish gastronomy, wine and culture.” - - John Hemingway
* * * * *
About John Hemingway
John Hemingway is a Canadian/American novelist and journalist. His memoir Strange Tribe (The Lyons Press, 2007) describes the often turbulent relationship between his father Dr. Gregory Hemingway and his grandfather, Ernest Hemingway. His recent novel Bacchanalia, A Pamplona Story (November, 2019) is a modern take on the Fiesta de San Fermin. It follows the activities of a group of expatriates as they live the nine-day festival to its fullest, running with the bulls in the morning, watching the bullfights in the afternoon and in between drinking, partying, feasting, flirting like there was no tomorrow. John has been to the Fiesta nine times and has run with the bulls seventeen times. His short stories have been published in magazines and literary reviews such as The Saturday Evening Post and Provincetown Arts. Currently John and his wife Kristina live in Montreal, Quebec with their black lab, Hugo.
About Gerry Dawes
About Gerry Dawes
"In his nearly thirty years (now forty) of wandering the back roads of Spain," Gerry Dawes has built up a much stronger bank of experiences than I had to rely on when I started writing Iberia...His adventures far exceeded mine in both width and depth..." -- James A. Michener, author of Iberia: Spanish Travels and Reflections
Gerry Dawes received Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award) and he was a
finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best
Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for
Journalism (€14,000) for his article on Cava, and received the 2009
Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a
Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about Catalan
star chef, Ferran Adrià. He writes and speaks frequently on Spanish gastronomy, wine and cultural themes.
Dawes has organized and led numerous gastronomic and cultural trips to Spain, including for the Commonwealth Club of California (twice), the mythical 61st Tactical Fighter Squadron (twice), The World Trade Center Club (NYC), The Club Chefs of NY & CT. And he has led Spain trips for many top American chefs and culinary figures such as Thomas Keller, Mark Miller (six times), Michael Chiarello, Michael Lomonaco, Mark Kiffin, Ryan McIlwraith, Norman Van Aken, cookbook author Rozanne Gold, and many others, including baseball great Keith Hernandez.
Dawes has organized and led numerous gastronomic and cultural trips to Spain, including for the Commonwealth Club of California (twice), the mythical 61st Tactical Fighter Squadron (twice), The World Trade Center Club (NYC), The Club Chefs of NY & CT. And he has led Spain trips for many top American chefs and culinary figures such as Thomas Keller, Mark Miller (six times), Michael Chiarello, Michael Lomonaco, Mark Kiffin, Ryan McIlwraith, Norman Van Aken, cookbook author Rozanne Gold, and many others, including baseball great Keith Hernandez.
"My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless criss-crossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's culinary life." -- Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés of José Andrés ThinkFoodGroup, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019.
Gerry Dawes had also traveled in the footsteps of Ernest Hemingway to all of the places we will visit on this trip (and to many EH favorites in France). In all our travels, we will be dining in restaurants specially selected by Gerry Dawes for their relationship to Ernest Hemingway and his writings and, when the original places no longer exist, he will chose gastronomic experiences for their authenticity, quality, uniqueness and approximation to what Hemingway would have eaten in those locales. Our meals will be accompanied by wines chosen by Gerry, who is one of the world’s top experts on Spanish wines, to reflect the best aspects of each locale.
A Taste of Ernest Hemingway’s Spain Itinerary
A complete prospectus and trip contract will be sent to each interested party. Travel insurance is recommended. Check with your credit card provider or personal insurance company. Email : gerrydawes@aol.com
Please note: All bullfight tickets are optional and not included in the tour. If you wish to attended any of the designated corridas, we need to now so we can arrange for the tickets which must be purchased in advance and guaranteed by cash. We may, depending on the schedules have the opportunity to attend 2-3 corridas on this trip.
Day 00 Friday, July 17 USA to Málaga, Spain
Flights directly to Málaga or Málaga via Madrid.
Day 01 Saturday, July 18 Málaga
We will rendezvous at our centrally located Málaga Palacio hotel and, for those who arrive in time, have a casual tapas luncheon in the old quarter of Málaga, then stroll around the old quarter.
View of Málaga harbor from the Hotel Málaga Palacio.
In the evening, we will have drinks at the Gran Hotel Miramar, where EH, Ava Gardner, Elizabeth Taylor and others stayed. The Dangerous Summer p. 167 has descriptions of the people at the Marimar after a Málaga bullfight.
Dinner will be at a seaside restaurant that Ernest Hemingway knew when he visited Málaga to see bullfights and stayed with his friend Bill Davies at Finca La Consula in nearby Churriana.
Hotel Málaga Palacio.
Hotel Málaga Palacio.
Day 02 Sunday, July 19 Málaga - Ronda
In the morning, we will see some more of the old quarter, the Picasso Museum and the home where Picasso was born, the bullfight museum in the Málaga bullring, visit some other notable sites in the city, then have lunch in one of Málaga’s great seaside chiringuitos, like the ones that Hemingway would have frequented in Málaga for Mediterranean fish dishes such as the famous sardinas de espeto, fresh sardines skewered on cane or metal spits and roasted over live coals.
Sardinas de espeto, fresh sardines skewered on cane or metal spits and roasted over live coals.
After lunch, we will stop outside Málaga to visit Finca La Consula, the magnificent country home of Hemingway’s great friend Bill Davies, where Hemingway stayed during the bullfights in Málaga and shot cigarettes from Matador Antonio Ordoñez’s mouth. La Consula has now been renovated and turned into the Escuela de Hostelería de Málaga, a hotel and restaurant school.
La Consula, Hemingway's friend Bill Davis's home a few kilometers outside Málaga. (Photo courtesy of laconsula.com)
After visiting la Consula, we will drive through rugged mountains to Ronda, a former bandolero (bandit-and-smuggler) mountain town much frequented by Hemingway and the hometown of Antonio Ordoñez. Ronda has statues of Antonio Ordoñez and his father Cayetano, who fought bulls under the name Niño de la Palma and was the prototype for Pedro Romero in The Sun Also Rises and a central character in Death of Afternoon. There is also a monument to Ernest Hemingway and to Orson Welles, who was a great friend of Antonio Ordoñez and had his ashes scattered on Antonio’s ranch near Ronda. Antonio Ordoñez was also a friend of tour leader Gerry Dawes, who has great remembrances of the maestro.
Gerry Dawes in front of the Ronda bullring at the statue of his friend the late Matador Antonio Ordoñez, Ernest Hemingway's great friend and subject of The Dangerous Summer.
We will visit this exceptionally picturesque city, then relax in our wonderful hotel, which overlooks the mountains surrounding Ronda. In the evening, we will have dinner in a restaurant that is a virtual bullfight photo-and-poster museum that also has photos of Hemingway in Ronda.
Ronda.
Flamenco dancer, Andalucía.
After dinner, we will offer the option of attending a Flamenco performance.
Hotel Reina Victoria (or comparable), Ronda.
Day 03 Monday, July 20 Ronda – Córdoba AVE – Madrid
This morning we will visit a bit more of Ronda, then ride two hours north to Córdoba, where we will visit the famous Mezquita mosque, Median Azahara and the Monasterio de San Jerónimo de Valparaíso, where Hemingway stayed as guest of the Marqués del Mérito, when he went to a corrida in Córdoba during The Dangerous Summer of 1959, then have lunch at an emblematic Córdoban restaurant in the old quarter.
We will send our bus ahead to Madrid with our luggage and our driver will handle delivering it to our hotel.
We will send our bus ahead to Madrid with our luggage and our driver will handle delivering it to our hotel.
The Mezquita mosque in Córdoba.
In the afternoon, we will take the AVE high-speed train to Madrid, less than 2 hours arriving in late afternoon, and check into the Hotel Suecia, where Hemingway often stayed and we will visit the Palace Hotel, which was one of the settings in the final pages of The Sun Also Rises.
AVE high-speed train.
We will have dinner at Casa Botín, an EH favorite which also figured prominently in the final pages of The Sun Also Rises, then have the option of drinks at Chicote, one of EH’s favorite watering holes in Madrid. Gerry Dawes has long been a friend of the owners of Casa Botín, so we will get special treatment and Gerry will read the passages in The Sun Also Rises that are set in this famous restaurant, which is claimed in the Guiness Book of Records to be the oldest continually operating restaurant in the world.
Hotel Suecia (or comparable), Madrid.
Gerry reading scenes set in Casa Botín from Hemingway's The Sun Also Rises.
Cochinillo asado, roast suckling pig, one of Don Ernesto's favorites, at Casa Botín.
Day 04 Tuesday, July 21 Madrid – Burgos – La Rioja
In the morning, we will have breakfast tapas at the Cervecería Alemana, a favorite Hemingway and taurine aficionado hangout that it still much as it was during EH’s lifetime.
Cervecería Alemana, Madrid.
Photo of Ernest Hemingway and Matador Antonio Ordoñez, Ernest Hemingway's great friend and subject of The Dangerous Summer.
We will briefly visit the Plaza de Callao, where the Hotel Florida, where EH stayed during the Spanish Civil War, was located.
In late morning, we will be picked up by our bus and driven through the Guadarrama mountains, the setting for For Whom The Bell Tolls, to Burgos, a town that EH visited several times and wrote about bringing the queso de Burgos back to Paris on the train and giving to Gertrude Stein.
We will have lunch on roast suckling lamb and other Burgos specialties, then ride about an hour through picturesque Camino de Santiago scenery to La Rioja, where we will check into the Parador de Santo Domingo de la Calzada on the Camino de Santiago, then visit a Rioja family winery, where some really wonderful artisan wines are made in manmade underground caves. We will have dinner at the winery, lamb chops and chorizo cooked in a fireplace over grapevine cuttings, salad, Spanish tortilla de patatas and plenty of the bodega’s vino.
Parador de Santo Domingo de la Calzada (Santo Domingo, La Rioja)
Day 05 Wednesday, July 22 La Rioja – Pamplona – Burguete
Parador de Santo Domingo de la Calzada (Santo Domingo, La Rioja)
Rioja family winery where we will have dinner.
In the morning, we will leave Rioja and in about an hour arrive in Pamplona, see the memorial bust of EH in front of the bullring and walk along the route of the annual running of the bulls and visit the sites that EH wrote about in The Sun Also Rises. We will visit the Hotel La Perla, where Hemingway stayed in the later years; see the site on the Plaza del Castillo where Hotel Quintana (Hotel Montoya in The Sun Also Rises), owned by his great friend Juanito Quintana (also a friend of Gerry Dawes), was located; and the Hotel Yoldi, where the matadors stay and dress and where EH visited them before and after bullfights.
A Morning's Pleasure: Running the Bulls at Pamplona (An Excerpt from Homage to Iberia: More Spanish Travels & Reflections by Gerry Dawes)
Restaurante Aralar, Pamplona, one of the places EH frequented for lunch or dinner.
Photograph by Jim Hollander.
Many of the establishments where EH ate and drank no longer exist, but others are still operating and we will have a drink at the bar of Cafe Iruña, which has a life-size statue of EH hanging out at the end of the bar. And we will have lunch in an EH favorite down on Calle San Nicolas serving the great typical Navarra food that EH would have eaten such as menestra (a panache of local vegetables) and trucha a la Navarra (whole local trout cooked with a slice of serrano ham in the belly) and we will drink the great Navarra rosados that EH always drank here.
Cafe Iruña, which has a life-size statue of EH hanging out at the end of the bar.
Hostal Burguete, where EH stayed when he went trout fishing in the 1920s, featured prominently in The Sun Also Rises.
After lunch, we will ride an hour into the Navarran Pyrenees to the mountain town of Burguete, where we will check into Hostal Burguete, where EH stayed when he went trout fishing on the Irati River and immortalized in The Sun Also Rises and where tour leader Gerry Dawes has stayed half a dozen times. We will visit the nearby Monastery of Roncesvalles, then relax in this small village, stroll and have dinner on similar fare, including trout, that EH would have known. For those interested, we will offer a trout fishing expedition 10 minutes from Burguete on the Irati River, where EH fished.
Hostal Burguete, Burguete (Navarra).
Trout fishing in the Navarra Pyrenees.
Day 06 Thursday, July 23 Burguete – Roncal – Olite - Tudela
In the morning, we will drive through awesome spectacular Pyrenees Mountains scenery (Gerry wrote an article on this route that appeared in The New York Times Travel section) to the great cheese producing town of Roncal, where we will have lunch, sample Roncal cheese and drink the wonderful Navarra rosados that EH loved so much that he carried them with him on his travels around Spain following the bullfights.
Roncal.
Castle, Olite.
Tudela will be having their annual fiesta, which will be as close as any fiesta in Spain to resembling the Fiestas de San Fermín in Pamplona during EH’s time. Except for the mobs of foreign tourists, Tudela has everything that Pamplona has—running of the bulls, bullfights, processions, fireworks and great jotas, the wonderful typical folk singing of Navarra and neighboring Aragón, which is scant kilometers from Tudela. In fact, many of the jota singers heard during the Fiestas de San Fermín in Pamplona come from Tudela. We will check into our hotel and have a drink in the Plaza Mayor, which should be in full fiesta.
Jota singer José Antonio Pérez Caro, Navarra, homage to the great jota singer Raimundo Lanas, a legend in the first half of the 20th Century.
For dinner, we will ride 15 minutes to the small town of Corella and have dinner with a Navarra winemaker at El Crucero, a great un-sung restaurant that specializes in the vegetable-based dishes, including alcachofas con foie (artichokes with with a seared piece of foie gras on top), the great pochas (beans with chorizo), cardos con granada (cardoon stalks with pomegranate seeds dressed with local arbequina extra virgen olive oil) and cabrito asado (roasted youing goat) for which this region is famous, with plenty of the great Navarra garnacha rosados, made from free-run juice, that Don Ernesto loved to drink. After dinner, we will return to Tudela and, for those still game, immerse ourselves in the sprit of a great Navarra fiesta.
Hotel Cuidad de Tudela, Tudela (Navarra).
Tudela monument to the Jota & Jota singer Raimundo Lanas (photo Bernardo Estornés Lasa).
Jota singer José Antonio Pérez Caro, Navarra, homage to the great jota singer Raimundo Lanas, a legend in the first half of the 20th Century.
For dinner, we will ride 15 minutes to the small town of Corella and have dinner with a Navarra winemaker at El Crucero, a great un-sung restaurant that specializes in the vegetable-based dishes, including alcachofas con foie (artichokes with with a seared piece of foie gras on top), the great pochas (beans with chorizo), cardos con granada (cardoon stalks with pomegranate seeds dressed with local arbequina extra virgen olive oil) and cabrito asado (roasted youing goat) for which this region is famous, with plenty of the great Navarra garnacha rosados, made from free-run juice, that Don Ernesto loved to drink. After dinner, we will return to Tudela and, for those still game, immerse ourselves in the sprit of a great Navarra fiesta.
Hotel Cuidad de Tudela, Tudela (Navarra).
Don Ernesto loved to drink great Navarra garnacha rosado, made from free-run juice.
Day 07 Friday, July 24 Tudela
Today, we will live the Fiestas de Santa Ana de Tudela with the encierro (running of the bulls a la Pamplona) in the morning and in the afternoon there will be a novillada (for apprentice toreros), for those so inclined to attend. The whole town will be in fiesta a la Pamplona in EH’s time.
Hotel Cuidad de Tudela, Tudela (Navarra).
Plaza Mayor in Tudela during Fiesta.
Day 08 Saturday, July 25 Tudela – Valencia
We will leave Tudela in morning and take the long drive to Valencia, a la EH following the fiestas around Spain, to arrive in Valencia during their July Fiestas.
We will check into our hotel and have a paella lunch at La Pepica, overlooking the Playa de la Malvarrosa where EH ate when he was in Valencia.
In the afternoon, we will have the option of attending the bullfight and in the evening, dinner at the exceptional tapas restaurant Casa Montaña (established in 1839), then fiesta and fireworks.
Hotel Valencia Palace (or similar), Valencia.
We will check into our hotel and have a paella lunch at La Pepica, overlooking the Playa de la Malvarrosa where EH ate when he was in Valencia.
In the afternoon, we will have the option of attending the bullfight and in the evening, dinner at the exceptional tapas restaurant Casa Montaña (established in 1839), then fiesta and fireworks.
Hotel Valencia Palace (or similar), Valencia.
Paellas at La Pepica,Valencia.
Photos at La Pepcia of EH,Antonio Ordoñez and friends having dinner there during The Dangerous Summer.
Owner Emiliano García and Gerry Dawes at Casa Montaña, Valencia.
Casa Montaña, founded in 1836 in the working class/fishermens barrio of
El Cabanyal-El Canyamelar in Valencia.
El Cabanyal-El Canyamelar in Valencia.
Day 09 Sunday, July 26 Valencia – Chinchón
In the morning, we will visit the Mercat Central de Valencia, then just outside Valencia, visit the rice paddies of the Albufuera lagoon and have an early lunch on local specialties, including paella.
After lunch, we will ride across La Mancha, stopping to see some of the windmills made famous in Don Quixote and arrive in the magical town of Chinchón by late afternoon.
Quixotesque windmills in La Mancha.
It is probable that there may be one of the famous bullfights in Chinchón's Plaza Mayor, which our tour participants will have the option to attend.
We will spend the evening exploring this lovely town with its iconic Plaza Mayor and have dinner in a great Castilian restaurant overlooking the Plaza.
Hotel Condesa de Chinchón.
Chinchón's Plaza Mayor.
La Balconada Restaurante, which overlooks Chinchón's iconic Plaza Mayor.
Day 10 Monday, July 27 Chinchón – Aranjuez – Chinchón
We will spend a leisurely Sunday morning in Chinchón, then ride just over half an hour to nearby Aranjuez, where EH attended bullfights and wrote ten pages in The Dangerous Summer about his experiences there. We will have lunch, as EH did, overlooking the river in a restaurant he ate and the dish are such local specialties as Aranjuez esparragos (asparagus), ancas de rana (frogs’ legs) and fresas (strawberries).
After lunch, we will return to Chinchón and relax on our final evening and then have our farewell dinner at another very special restaurant on the Plaza Mayor that has a dining room that is a taurine photo museum dedicated to the former owner’s friend, Matador Nicanor Villalta, for whom John Hemingway’s uncle John Hadley Nicanor Hemingway was named.
Hotel Condesa de Chinchón.
Hotel Condesa de Chinchón.
Chinchón's Plaza Mayor.
Patio of the Condesa de Chinchón.
Day 11 Tuesday, July 27 Chinchón – Madrid - USA
Our bus will take our group to Madrid airport, just under an hour from Chinchón, to catch our flights back to the U. S. Anyone who books a very early flight will need ask us to help line up a taxi to the airport.
'
Madrid Airport, Terminal IV.
* * * * *
Shall deeds of Caesar or Napoleon ring
More true than Don Quixote's vapouring?
Hath winged Pegasus more nobly trod
Than Rocinante stumbling up to God?
Poem
by Archer M. Huntington inscribed under the Don Quixote on his horse
Rocinante bas-relief sculpture by his wife, Anna Vaughn Hyatt
Huntington, in the courtyard of the Hispanic Society of America’s
incredible museum at 613 W. 155th
Street, New York
City.
____________________________________________________________________________________
In 2019, again ranked in the Top 50
Gastronomy Blogs and Websites for Gastronomists & Gastronomes in
2019 by Feedspot. (Last Updated Oct 23, 2019)
"The Best Gastronomy blogs selected from thousands of Food blogs, Culture blogs and Food Science blogs in our index using search and social metrics. We’ve carefully selected these websites because they are actively working to educate, inspire, and empower their readers with frequent updates and high-quality information."
36. Gerry Dawes's Spain: An Insider's Guide to Spanish Food, Wine, Culture and Travel
About Gerry Dawes
"The Best Gastronomy blogs selected from thousands of Food blogs, Culture blogs and Food Science blogs in our index using search and social metrics. We’ve carefully selected these websites because they are actively working to educate, inspire, and empower their readers with frequent updates and high-quality information."
36. Gerry Dawes's Spain: An Insider's Guide to Spanish Food, Wine, Culture and Travel
About Gerry Dawes
"My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine
enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless
crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce
Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's
culinary life." -- Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel
Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019
Gerry Dawes was the Producer and Program Host of Gerry Dawes & Friends, a weekly radio progam on Pawling Public Radio in Pawling, New York (streaming live and archived at www.pawlingpublicradio.org and at www.beatofthevalley.com.)
Dawes
was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía
(National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on
Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural
tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's
Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava
Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004,
was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles
& Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the
2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature
in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about
Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià.
In December, 2009, Dawes was awarded the Food Arts Silver Spoon Award in a profile written by José Andrés.
".
. .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià
in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow
narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish
correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food
journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a
self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again
brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane
Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher,
Food Arts, October 2009.
Pilot for a reality television series
on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
Experience
Spain With Gerry Dawes: Customized Culinary, Wine & Cultural
Trips to Spain & Travel Consulting on Spain
Gerry Dawes can be reached at gerrydawes@aol.com; Alternate e-mail (use only if your e-mail to AOL is rejected): gerrydawes@gmail.com
Gerry Dawes can be reached at gerrydawes@aol.com; Alternate e-mail (use only if your e-mail to AOL is rejected): gerrydawes@gmail.com
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