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36. Gerry Dawes's Spain: An Insider's Guide to Spanish Food, Wine, Culture and Travel gerrydawesspain.com

"My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's culinary life. . .” - - Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019; Chef-partner of Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards, New York 2019

3/29/2019

Madrid Classics: Casa Lucio, Cava Baja Update on Lucio´s Birthday Today - Five Salvador Dalí Persistence of Memory Melting Watches



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Periodically I, Geraldo (one of my nicknames), rate restaurants or experiences in Spain with 1-5 Salvador Dalí Persistence of Memory Melting Watches. You will find my ratings at the top of some posts.  Casa Lucio has been upgraded to five of five on my Salvador Dalí Persistence of Memory Melting Watches
 
  
Lucio Blásquez with his Virgen del Rocio pendant. This photo was published with a calendar featuring some of Spain's top restaurants. Photo by Gerry Dawes©2009. gerrydawes@aol.com

Casa Lucio is one of my favorite restaurants in Madrid. It is one of Madrid's best known restaurants and reservations are hard to come by, but Lucio Blásquez, Mari (his daughter) and Javier (one of his sons) treat me like a long-lost family member when I show up and somehow manage to find me a table. 

This time I went with my friend Harold Heckle, an English journalist who lives in Madrid and has been my dinner companion on my occasions at Casa Lucio.   Harold and I dined on huevos estrellados (fried potatoes with fried eggs "broken" over them); alubias con faisán (beans cooked with pheasant), a terrific solomillo (filet mignon) and arroz con leche with a caramelized crust, accompanied by a good bottle of Luís Cañas Rioja Tinto. 

For some years now, I have been  photographing all the waiters at Casa Lucio and tonight was the night I would get some of the ones I had missed (some have retired, new ones have taken their place on team.  I had photographed all of them, except for my friend from Ubrique Jose Luís, who was ill, got their names, the towns the come from and years of service, along with photos of Mari, Javier and Fernando (the son who runs Los Huevos de Lucio, across the street).

 With my great friend journalist Harold Heckle at Casa Lucio.


As usual, going to Casa Lucio was like coming home and after six months away from Madrid, I was long overdue for a homecoming.

On the same trip, one day I left Madrid Fusión early, around 3 p.m. and, because of a Madrid Taxi strike, I took the Madrid Metro, through at least three train changes, to the Latina station, which is around the corner from Casa Lucio.  I arrived just before 4 p.m., when Lucio was sitting down with friends and family for lunch at the family table in the bar area.  The called for another chair and made room for me to have lunch en familia.   Did I mention that I love Lucio, his son Javier (General Manager), daughter Mari (she runs Huevos de Lucio  across the street), his Chinchón-playing (a card game similar to Mus) buddies and a slew of the waiters at Lucio, many of whom are friends.  To see the full story of the luncheon at Lucio click on the link and see 1/29/2019 Lunch with Lucio at Casa Lucio, Cava Baja, Madrid. Ensalada, lechazo asado (roast suckling lamb) and plenty of Rioja Reserva Tinto.

 Gerry Dawes and legendary Casa Lucio owner Lucio Blásquez at lunch at Casa Lucio, Cava Baja, Madrid.
 

Two months later with Lucio, Mari Blásquez, Gerry Dawes and friends at lunch at Casa Lucio, Madrid, March 29, 2019.  There were plates of jamón Ibérico and excellent aged Manchego cheese, mejillones a la gallega, gambas al ajillo, callos a la Madrileña, potaje de garbanzos, bacalao fresco con tomate, pan perdido con helado, Marqués de Caceres Rosado and Cune Rioja Reserva Tinto. And a great time!


 Mejillones a la gallega.


 Gambas al ajillo.


Callos a la Madrileña.


Potaje de garbanzos. 


 Bacalao fresco con tomate.

 
Lucio with his Chinchón-playing (a card game similar to Mus) buddies after lunch at Casa Lucio.


 * * * * *
  Shall deeds of Caesar or Napoleon ring
More true than Don Quixote's vapouring?
Hath winged Pegasus more nobly trod
Than Rocinante stumbling up to God?

Poem by Archer M. Huntington inscribed under the Don Quixote on his horse Rocinante bas-relief sculpture by his wife, Anna Vaughn Hyatt Huntington,
in the courtyard of the Hispanic Society of America’s incredible museum at 613 W. 155th Street, New York City.
 _______________________________________________________________________________________
 Gastronomy Blogs

About Gerry Dawes

My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's culinary life." -- Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019


Gerry Dawes is the Producer and Program Host of Gerry Dawes & Friends, a weekly radio progam on Pawling Public Radio in Pawling, New York (streaming live and archived at www.pawlingpublicradio.org and at www.beatofthevalley.com.)

Dawes was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004, was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles & Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the 2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià. 


". . .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher, Food Arts, October 2009. 
 
Pilot for a reality television series on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
 

3/23/2019

Paco Carrasco, José Andrés´s ThinkFoodGroup Maestro Cortador (professional ham carver) de jamón Ibérico de bellota carving a ham at Mercado Little Spain during opening week VIDEO


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 (All photos and videos, unless otherwise identified are by or courtesy of Gerry Dawes©2019. No publication of these photos is allowed without written permission.)
 
José Andrés´s ThinkFoodGroup Maestro Cortador (professional ham carver) de jamón Ibérico de bellota "opening," Paco Carrasco, making the first cuts, for carving an Ibérico ham  at Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards, March 19, 2019. Photo by Gerry Dawes©2019


 * * * * *
 "As a young chef arriving in America from Spain in the early 1990s, I came to see Gerry as an ally. At the time, I found myself struggling to explain Spanish cooking because people either had no idea or they had the wrong idea. It was a battle. But Gerry's writing meant I was not alone in telling Americans about piquillos and escudella and jamón.  At a time when most food journalists were writing about France and Italy, Gerry went off in his own direction to become the first to really tell the story of Spain."– José Andrés, James Beard Award Winning Star Chef, Jaleo, Zaytinya, Café Átlantico Minibar (Washington, D.C.), Bazaar by José Andrés (Los Angeles & Las Vegas), Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards, New York City; Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019 .

 * * * * *
  Shall deeds of Caesar or Napoleon ring
More true than Don Quixote's vapouring?
Hath winged Pegasus more nobly trod
Than Rocinante stumbling up to God?

Poem by Archer M. Huntington inscribed under the Don Quixote on his horse Rocinante bas-relief sculpture by his wife, Anna Vaughn Hyatt Huntington,
in the courtyard of the Hispanic Society of America’s incredible museum at 613 W. 155th Street, New York City.
 _______________________________________________________________________________________
 Gastronomy Blogs

About Gerry Dawes

My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's culinary life." -- Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019


Gerry Dawes is the Producer and Program Host of Gerry Dawes & Friends, a weekly radio progam on Pawling Public Radio in Pawling, New York (streaming live and archived at www.pawlingpublicradio.org and at www.beatofthevalley.com.)

Dawes was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004, was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles & Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the 2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià. 


". . .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher, Food Arts, October 2009. 
 
Pilot for a reality television series on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
 

Mercado Little Spain's Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés of José Andrés ThinkFoodGroup, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019


* * * * *
 (All photos by or courtesy of Gerry Dawes©2019, unless otherwise noted. No publication of these photos is allowed without written permission.)
 

José Andrés with a gintonic at his Bazaar by José Andrés at the SLS Hotel in Los Angeles.  Photo by Gerry Dawes.

"As a young chef arriving in America from Spain in the early 1990s, I came to see Gerry as an ally. At the time, I found myself struggling to explain Spanish cooking because people either had no idea or they had the wrong idea.  It was a battle.  But Gerry's writing meant I was not alone in telling Americans about piquillos and escudella and jamón.  At a time when most food journalists were writing about France and Italy, Gerry went off in his own direction to become the first to really tell the story of Spain."– José Andrés, James Beard Award Winning Star Chef, Jaleo, Zaytinya, Café Átlantico Minibar (Washington, D.C.), Bazaar by José Andrés (Los Angeles & Las Vegas), Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards, New York City; Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019 .

 
José Andrés gave an impassioned at the opening of Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards, New York City, March 14, 2019. All photos by Gerry Dawes©2019.




Gerry Dawes, Albert Adrià, illustrator Edel Rodríguez and José Andrés with Rodríguez´s Time Magazine ¨Peach¨¨ cover of the March 25 issue about the Impeachment polemic surrounding Donald Trump.  Photo by Julius Wiedemann, Editor in charge for design and pop culture at Tachen Books.

Albert Adrià and José Andrés talking over the events of the day at Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards, March 18, 2019.  All photos by Gerry Dawes©2019.


José Andrés, the driving force behind José Andrés ThinkFoodGroup, an empire of some thirty first-rate restaurant concepts in the United States.  José Andrés. a native of Asturias in northern Spain, is an immigrant who is now an American citizen, who proudly wears an I Am An Immigrant tee-shirt.  Andrés, who has performed Herculean humanitarian missions to feed earthquake, hurricane, fire and other natural disaster victims, has been nominated for the Nobel Prize and was a Presenter at the Oscars in Hollywood this year.  All photos by Gerry Dawes©2019.


Trés Huevos: Quim Marqués, formerly the chef-owner of Suquet de L’Almirall in Barcelona, José Andrés and John Sconzo (Docsconz) at Mercado Little Spain (a José Andrés, Albert Adrià and Ferran Adrià creation) Hudson Yards, March 19, 2019.  All photos by Gerry Dawes©2019.

 Albert Adriá and José Andrés at Albert Adriá´s Tickets, Barcelona, June 2011.  Photo by Gerry Dawes©2011.

   
Albert Adrià, José Andrés and a friend at Inopia's 4th (and last) anniversary party in Barcelona in March, 2010.   Photograph by Gerry Dawes©2010.  Contact: gerrydawes@aol.com.


José Andrés pouring Cava at a star-studded party for the opening of Albert's Inopia Tapas Restaurant (now closed) in Barcelona in April, 2010. 
Photo by Gerry Dawes©2010.


José Andrés tasting my wines of The Spanish Artisan Wine & Spirits Group - Gerry Dawes Selections at Jaleo in Washington, D. C., December 2015.  Photo by Gerry Dawes©2015.


* * * * *
  Shall deeds of Caesar or Napoleon ring
More true than Don Quixote's vapouring?
Hath winged Pegasus more nobly trod
Than Rocinante stumbling up to God?


Poem by Archer M. Huntington inscribed under the Don Quixote on his horse Rocinante bas-relief sculpture by his wife, Anna Vaughn Hyatt Huntington,
in the courtyard of the Hispanic Society of America’s incredible museum at 613 W. 155th Street, New York City.
 _______________________________________________________________________________________
 Gastronomy Blogs

About Gerry Dawes

My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's culinary life." -- Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019


Gerry Dawes is the Producer and Program Host of Gerry Dawes & Friends, a weekly radio progam on Pawling Public Radio in Pawling, New York (streaming live and archived at www.pawlingpublicradio.org and at www.beatofthevalley.com.)

Dawes was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004, was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles & Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the 2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià. 


". . .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher, Food Arts, October 2009. 
 
Pilot for a reality television series on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
 

3/22/2019

Mercado Little Spain Hudson Yards: The People That Make This Place One of the Most Outstanding Spanish Food Operations in the United States


* * * * * 

Mercado Little Spain Hudson Yards:  The People

(All these photos by or courtesy of Gerry Dawes©2019. No publication of these photos is allowed without written permission.)

The Directors of Mercado Little Spain have pulled out all the stops to make sure the launch of this enterprise goes smoothly and that the employees who will carry on once the stars leave are properly trained.  After the first month, you will not often see some of the best know most accomplished culinary stars you will see on this page, because they will have to finish training staff and get back to their regular jobs in both the United States and Spain, but, for now, they are working very hard to insure that Spanish cuisine puts its best foot forward at Mercado Little Spain, Hudson Yards, New York City.

The following is a photo album of the talent working during the opening weeks.


Albert Adrià--part of the three superstar chef team, along with José Andrés of José Andrés ThinkFoodGroup and Albert's super-famous brother Ferran Adrià of elBulli fame--also runs a El Barri, a brilliant five-restaurant empire in Barcelona that includes Tickets, Pakta, Hoja Santa, Bodega 1900 and Enigma. 


José Andrés, the driving force behind José Andrés ThinkFoodGroup, an empire of some thirty first-rate restaurant concepts in the United States.  José Andrés. a native of Asturias in northern Spain, is an immigrant who is now an American citizen, who proudly wears an I Am An Immigrant tee-shirt.  Andrés, who has performed Herculean humanitarian missions to feed earthquake, hurricane, fire and other natural disaster victims, has been nominated for the Nobel Prize and was a Presenter at the Oscars in Hollywood this year. 


Signs outside Mercado Little Spain proudly proclaim, "The Spanish Are Here!"
!Bienvenidos!


Ruben Garcia, director of culinary creativity for ThinkFoodGroup, at Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards, New York City, March 18, 2019.


 Formerly Director of Restaurants, Las Vegas at ThinkFoodGroup, Charlotte Robertson is now General Manager of Mercado Little Spain.
 

Rafael Vidal, Spain’s greatest paella Valenciana maestro and the paella consultant for the Leña(wood-fired) paella and grilled and roasted meat stand at Mercado Little Spain. During opening week, Rafael and his wife Fina Vidagany were offering a paella de verduras (vegetarian vegetable only paella)and authentic paella a la Valenciana (this version just had chicken and rabbit, no duck, along with beans, vainas (a flat green bean)Rafael Vidal hopes to be able to bring in soongarrofós (a special white broadbean from Valencia), a beloved ingredient in Vidal´s paella Valenciana. 



 







Two Quims from Barcelona in New York:  Quim Marquez, Chef-owner of Quim de la Boquería
in Barcelona’s wonderful Mercat de San Josep, better known by its popular name, Mercat de la Boquería , with Quim Marqués, former Chef-owner of el Suquet de L’Almirall in Barcelona. The second Quim Marqués is a consultant for Mercado Little Spain, the former in town for the opening.



 










A. J. Ojeda-Pons, Beverage Director at Mercado Little Spain (a José Andrés, Albert Adrià and Ferran Adrià creation) Hudson Yards, expertly prepared two draft Vermouths at Bar Celona for John Sconzo and Gerry Dawes,  March 19, 2019. Photo by Gerry Dawes©2019.





Joshua Whigham, former chef de cuisine at SLS The Bazaar by Jose Andres in Los Angeles, helping out as a training consultant at La Barra at Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards, New York City, March 19, 2019.   #ChefJoshuaWhigham










Mercado Little Spain Trainer Maggie Elmore serving from a carafe gazpacho con guarnición, Andalucian gazpacho with diced vegetable garnish at La Barra at Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards, March 19, 2019. Photo by Gerry Dawes©2019.










My old friend John Sconzo (Docsconz; Rascal & Thorn), who has been on at least half a dozen trips with me to Spain, with the great Phillip Baltz, President of Baltz & Company, the Public Relations firm that was contracted to publicize Mercado Little Spain.





















Patches on chefs jackets for sale in the store at Mercado Little Spain.


José Andrés´s ThinkFoodGroup Maestro Cortador (professional ham carver) de jamón Ibérico de bellota "opening," Paco Carrosco, making the first cuts, for carving an  Ibérico ham  at Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards, March 19, 2019. Photo by Gerry Dawes©2019


Alex Vélez, Master Ham Carver for Fermín, an important Spanish ham and cured meat producer.


Employee making pan tumaca, Spanish bread with fresh crushed tomato, garlic, salt and olive oil, topped with thin sliced jamón serrano.  For part of the evening, Albert Adriá was helping him turn out sandwiches.


Trés Huevos:  Quim Marqués, formerly the chef-owner of Suquet de L’Almirall in Barcelona, José Andrés and John Sconzo (Docsconz) at Mercado Little Spain (a José Andrés, Albert Adrià and Ferran Adrià creation) Hudson Yards, March 19, 2019.

 
The live-fire paella pit at Leña (live firewood fire) paella and roasted meats stand at Mercado Little Spain.
 

Ferran Adrià, Albert Adrià´s older brother and ultra super culinary star, who was, with Albert, the creative force behind the now-closed, often cited as the Best Restaurant in the World elBulli, north of Barcelona, is one of the three main creative forces. Albert, Ferran and José Andrés and their teams are behind Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards.   

Photo of Ferran Adrià, whom I have been photographing since 1996, at Madrid Fusión 2019 by Gerry Dawes©2019.  Ferran has worked on this project for years, was not present during opening week.  Someone has to mind the restaurants back in Barcelona while Albert Adrià is in New York.


 "Estamos in Training" (We are in Training), super-star chef and partner Albert Adriá with two of the chefs at La Barra at Mercado Little Spain, March 18, 2019.

* * * * *
  Shall deeds of Caesar or Napoleon ring
More true than Don Quixote's vapouring?
Hath winged Pegasus more nobly trod
Than Rocinante stumbling up to God?


Poem by Archer M. Huntington inscribed under the Don Quixote on his horse Rocinante bas-relief sculpture by his wife, Anna Vaughn Hyatt Huntington,
in the courtyard of the Hispanic Society of America’s incredible museum at 613 W. 155th Street, New York City.
___________________________________________________________________________________
 Gastronomy Blogs

About Gerry Dawes

My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's culinary life." -- Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019


Gerry Dawes is the Producer and Program Host of Gerry Dawes & Friends, a weekly radio progam on Pawling Public Radio in Pawling, New York (streaming live and archived at www.pawlingpublicradio.org and at www.beatofthevalley.com.)

Dawes was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004, was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles & Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the 2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià. 


". . .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher, Food Arts, October 2009. 
 
Pilot for a reality television series on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
 
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