In the Words of "Mr. Spain," Gerry Dawes This post is part of a series called: Books That Paved the Way, highlighting culinary luminaries and the books that influenced their careers. In the days leading up to The Culinary Institute of America - - Greystone's Worlds of Flavor Conference 2008, I received a note from Gerry Dawes. A hearty welcome followed a congenial, “Stop and say hello!”
Little did I know, that generous nod was from the foremost authority on Spanish food & wine. Gerry has a long list of accolades--including the first to introduce American readers to maestro of molecular gastronomy Ferran Adrià--but industry folks call him simply, “Mr. Spain.”
At the conference, Gerry led a compelling discussion on Spanish street food. Through images and stories, he artfully crafted a culinary sense of place, taking us on an insider’s nosh through Barcelona’s largest indoor market, Boquería. Gerry drove home the importance of both terroir and the people, leaving little to wonder why Spanish cuisine is one of the hottest culinary trends.
When I approached Gerry about his most influential writing, his response revealed a wealth of information and more than a few surprises. Generously peppered with autobiographical insight, Gerry’s words read like an arm wrapped around your shoulder, guiding you to the good stuff.
Photo by John Sconzo©2009.
Influential Cookbooks for a “Self-taught” Amateur Cook
At the conference, Gerry led a compelling discussion on Spanish street food. Through images and stories, he artfully crafted a culinary sense of place, taking us on an insider’s nosh through Barcelona’s largest indoor market, Boquería. Gerry drove home the importance of both terroir and the people, leaving little to wonder why Spanish cuisine is one of the hottest culinary trends.
Photo by John Sconzo©2009.Influential Cookbooks for a “Self-taught” Amateur Cook
by Gerry Dawes©2021.
First off, I rarely use cookbooks, I fly without instruments most of the time. Between the Ramsey Farm Korean produce market, five miles away in Ramsey, NJ, which also has fish and shellfish, and the local supermarkets and farmers markets around Suffern, NY, (where I used to live), I cook from the lay of the land, picking out what vegetables, etc. look best, then I put them together in ever changing combinations, even when I am alone and not cooking for Kay, my SE (Spousal Equivalent). (Note: I now live in Eastern Putnam County, so, for ingredients, I "forage" making the rounds of local farm stands in season, a neighborhood bird farm for chicken and duck eggs, the ACE Endico company store in Southeast, Hanneford's in Pawling for some ingredients and the local ACME in Patterson and Shoprite in Carmel for others. Sometimes I range as far as Adam's Fairacre Farms store in Wappingers Falls and Trader Joe's in Danbury, CT (each about 20-25 mintues away). If I am in the city, where I almost never go since the advent of COVID, I sometimes pick up ingredients at Zabar's and Spanish ingredients at Despaña Brands in Soho.
Breakfast might include scrambled eggs with chopped scallions or leeks, red peppers, little cubes of eggplant, jalapeño and/or habanero peppers and the finished dish will be topped with grated Asiago cheese and freshly ground black pepper. I often accompany this with Mexican salsa verde, Spanish chorizo and cherry tomatoes quick-sautéed with jalapeños, garlic and cilantro or Italian polenta with Spanish Valdeón blue cheese on the side.
Breakfast might include scrambled eggs with chopped scallions or leeks, red peppers, little cubes of eggplant, jalapeño and/or habanero peppers and the finished dish will be topped with grated Asiago cheese and freshly ground black pepper. I often accompany this with Mexican salsa verde, Spanish chorizo and cherry tomatoes quick-sautéed with jalapeños, garlic and cilantro or Italian polenta with Spanish Valdeón blue cheese on the side.
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