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The late Pedro Arregi at Restaurante Elkano with his prized wood-grilled rodaballo (turbot). Elkano Txiki is run
by Restaurante Elkano in the recuperated space that was where the Pedro
Arregi started Elkano decades ago in 1964 as bar with grill on the
street to cook some of the catch brought in each day by local fisherman. The chef behind the menu at Elkano Txiki is the supremely talented chef of Elkano, Pablo Vicari.
Elkano and Elkano Txiki Chef Pablo Vicari, chef of the greatest fish restaurant in the world and of one of the greatest TaPinTxikos.
Hotel Itxas Gain owners Antero Silveti and Maria Edarri.
October 7, 2024
I returned to The Basque Country of Northern Spain to attend San Sebastián Gastronomika, a three-day conference that features some the world´s greatest chefs and restaurateurs. I am staying in the fishing port of Getaria, 30 kms. west of San Sebastián, at one of my favorite "hotelitos" in the world, Hotel Itxas Gain, which is just across the street from one of my favorite restaurants in the world, Elkano, which many experts, including myself, think is likely the best fish restaurant in the world. (I know, you think I am overusing best in the world, etc. Come here and you will find that I am not.)
Kay Balun, breakfast at Hotel Itxas Gain, Getaria.
Last night, all the main restaurants in town were closed. During weeknights and always on Sunday night they close. But, just around the corner from my hotel is a tapas, pintxos, small plates restaurant Elkano Txiki. I coining a word for these places that are not tapas bars, nor pintxo bars, nor full-blown restaurants per se, they are casual, not expensive, Gastro TaPinTxikos (Tapinchico) restaurants serving tapas (pintxos in Basque) and platos txikos (small plates) and raciónes (larger portions) but at a level that should be satisfying to even the most demanding serious foodie. Remember you first read the word TaPinTxikos here on Gerry Dawes's Spain.
Run by Restaurante Elkano in the recuperated space that was where Pedro Arregi started Elkano decades ago in 1964 as bar with grill on the street to cook some of the catch brought in each day by local fisherman. Elkano Txiki has only about 20 seats plus a few at the bar, so reservations are a must (it is only open Thursdays through Sundays).
Aitor Arregi, owner of Elkano restaurant, Getaria.
I know Aitor Arregi, who is a good friend of mine, so I have an entree. Nevertheless, I stopped by and reserved a seat at 8:00 p.m. I went at 8, sat down and they offered one of those scan on your phone menus, which they have in a little abstract wire globe device with a disk of wood with an image of Juan Sebastián Elkano, the native Getarian who was the first man to circumnavigate the globe (up on the stone wall of the restaurant is a very good bust of Elkano).
Mila Osa, the one-woman whirling dervish who serves the whole restaurant.
When I objected to scanning the menu with my cell phone, and must run several miles per night, brought me the menu in three languages, English, Spanish and Basque (I always opt for Spanish).
After one look at the menu, I knew I was going to have a very special gastronomic evening in relaxed, casual surroundings. Not only that, if you know people in Getaria, you are likely to see one or more of those work in and/or own other restaurants in town. As I was about to finish, Peio Lazcano and his son Gorka, owners of Asador Astillero, located down in the port and one of the best restaurants in a town of great restaurants, showed up at the bar. With Peio Lazcano (pronounced Peyo) and Gorka, was their friend, Pello (also Peyo) Arruabarrena, the long-time grill master at Kaia-Kaipe, another favorite restaurant, also of the Arregi family of Elkano fame.
Gorka Lazcano and his father Peio (Peyo) , owners of Asador Astillero in the port of Getaria, his friend, Pello (also Peyo) Arruabarrena, the
long-time grill master at Kaia-Kaipe, another favorite restaurant, also
of the Arregi family of Elkano fame. Far right, Elkano Txiki sala manager-bartender-waiter Bengoetxea Zuhaitz (Zweitz, tree in Basque).
I perused the menu which opened with pintxos that ranged from 2.5 Euros apiece to 5.5 Euros, then followed a list of entree-sized dishes from 8-14 Euros each. I wanted every damned dish on the menu!
Gildas--olives and guindillas (slightly picante slender green peppers) and pickled anchovies from Getaria, followed by a superb croqueta de pulpo a lo Pelayo (octopus and onion croquette).
I began with one of the best Gildas--olives and guindillas (slightly picante slender green peppers) and pickled anchovies from Getaria, followed by a superb croqueta de pulpo a lo Pelayo (octopus and onion croquette), followed by a brochetita de langostinos con papada, three delicious prawns entwined with a thin slice of high quality pork cheek. Next came an exquisite ceviche del pescado del dia, which turned out to be corvina.
Jefe de la sala-bartender-waiter Zuhaitz (Zweitz, tree in Basque) Bengoetxea.
By this time, I decided that I wanted to try several dishes off the bigger portion part of the menu, so asked the all-purpose jefe de la sala-bartender-waiter Zuhaitz (Zweitz, tree in Basque) Bengoetxea if he could give me tapas-sized portions of several more dishes. He agree and brought me smaller portions of pulpo de roca asado a la plancha (exceptional, perfectly grilled octopus with a delicate puree of potatoes), a single ravioli de hongos y carne de cocido (ravioli with mushrooms and meat from the stew pot) and a piece of pescado del dia de Getaria, which turned out to be a fatty portion of tuna belly that was as rich as a meat dish.
Pulpo de roca asado a la plancha and a piece of pescado del dia de Getaria, a portion of ventresca tuna belly.
I finally called time out and passed on super rich carrilleras de vaca guisada lentamente (slow-cooked veal cheeks), which I knew would put me into a coma. Besides, I had to save room for the tarta cremoso de queso, Basque cheese cake, which itself, was one of the best ever.
The wine was an excellent Viña Zorza Navarra Garnacha Rosado 2023.
Elkano Txiki ranks among the best restaurantes-bares of this type that I have ever encountered. It is so good that I would rank it alongside such other great places as Bar Bigote in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Taberna del Gourmet in Alicante, Quim de la Boqueria in Barcelona, La Catapa and Marisqueria Rafa in Madrid and Ganbara in San Sebastián.
Two young chefs cook Pablo Vicari´s menu at Elkano Txiki.
Comments are welcome and encouraged.
Text and photographs
copyright by Gerry Dawes©2025. Using photographs without crediting Gerry Dawes©2025 on
Facebook. Publication without my written permission is not authorized.
(Contact gerrydawes@aol.com for publishing rights.)
* * * * *
Shall deeds of Caesar or Napoleon ring
More true than Don Quixote's vapouring?
Hath winged Pegasus more nobly trod
Than Rocinante stumbling up to God?
More true than Don Quixote's vapouring?
Hath winged Pegasus more nobly trod
Than Rocinante stumbling up to God?
Poem
by Archer M. Huntington inscribed under the Don Quixote on his horse
Rocinante bas-relief sculpture by his wife, Anna Vaughn Hyatt
Huntington,
in the courtyard of the Hispanic
Society of America’s incredible museum at 613 W. 155th Street, New York
City.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________
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36. Gerry Dawes's Spain: An Insider's Guide to Spanish Food, Wine, Culture and Travel
About Gerry Dawes
My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine
enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless
crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce
Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's
culinary life." -- Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel
Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019
Gerry Dawes is the Producer and Program Host of Gerry Dawes & Friends, a weekly radio progam on Pawling Public Radio in Pawling, New York (streaming live and archived at www.pawlingpublicradio.org and at www.beatofthevalley.com.)
Dawes
was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía
(National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on
Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural
tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's
Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava
Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004,
was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles
& Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the
2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature
in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about
Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià.
In December, 2009, Dawes was awarded the Food Arts Silver Spoon Award in a profile written by José Andrés.
".
. .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià
in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow
narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish
correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food
journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a
self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again
brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane
Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher,
Food Arts, October 2009.
Pilot for a reality television series
on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.
Experience
Spain With Gerry Dawes: Customized Culinary, Wine & Cultural
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Gerry Dawes can be reached at gerrydawes@aol.com; Alternate e-mail (use only if your e-mail to AOL is rejected): gerrydawes@gmail.com
Gerry Dawes can be reached at gerrydawes@aol.com; Alternate e-mail (use only if your e-mail to AOL is rejected): gerrydawes@gmail.com
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