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"My good friend Gerry Dawes, the unbridled Spanish food and wine enthusiast cum expert whose writing, photography, and countless crisscrossings of the peninsula have done the most to introduce Americans—and especially American food professionals—to my country's culinary life." -- Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés of José Andrés ThinkFoodGroup, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019

"Trust me everyone, I have traveled with this man, if Gerry Dawes tells you to eat somewhere it's like Bourdain, believe it!!" - - Chef Mark Kiffin, The Compound Restaurant, Canyon Road, Santa Fe, New Mexico.

“Spain wouldn’t be as known to Americans without the stories Gerry tells and writes.” - - Superstar Catalan Chef Ferran Adrià, elBulli

"But, for Gerry, Spain is more than just the Adriàs and (Juan Mari and Elena) Arzaks. He has connected with all manner of people working at every level and in every corner of Spain. I’m always amazed at this reach. You can step into a restaurant in the smallest town in Spain, and it turns out they know Gerry somehow. I remember one rainy night in Madrid during the 2003 Madrid Fusión congress. I wanted to go to my favorite place for patatas bravas, the ultimate tapa. But Gerry had another place in mind, and I didn’t know about it. But Gerry is always right. The potatoes at his place were amazing.” - - Chef-restaurateur-humanitarian José Andrés, Nobel Peace Prize Nominee and Oscar Presenter 2019; Chef-partner of Mercado Little Spain at Hudson Yards, New York 2019

"Gerry Dawes loves Spain, and he loves Spanish wines. And the man knows whereof he speaks. The country bestowed upon him its prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomia (National Gastronomy Award) in 2003, and here’s what James A. Michener said about him in Iberia: SpanishTravels and Reflections: “In his nearly thirty years of wandering the back roads of Spain, Gerry Dawes has built up a much stronger bank of experiences than I had to rely on when I started writing Iberia … His adventures far exceeded mine in both width and depth … ” I first reached out to Dawes when I was planning a culinary journey to Barcelona, Rioja, and the Basque region of Spain, in 2011. I found his website and began reading, and have been learning from him ever since. Then, when I was preparing to stage at Arzak, in 2012, Dawes offered me some sound advice: learn Basque. He is opinionated – “You must decide whether you love wine or carpentry. If you want wood in your wine, suck on a toothpick as you drink your vino.” – he lives life with passion, and he respects wine and the men and woman who make it. Here’s to Gerry!" - - The Original Drinker: Spanish Wine Master Loves a $15.99 Rosado, Hates Wood and Always Avoids Wine Bars, James Brock, Paper City, papercitymag.com


Food Arts Silver Spoon Award to Gerry Dawes


 Premio Nacional de Gastronomía - - James Beard Foundation Nomination (Best Wine Writing)
Premio Periodistíco Cava

Gerry Dawes's Article Medieval Riches of El Cid's City (About Burgos, Spain)
Front Page, The New York Times Sunday Travel Section

 About Blog Author Gerry Dawes, Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award)


Gerry Dawes at Marisquería Rafa in Madrid.
Photo by John Sconzo, Docsconz: Musings on Food & Life 


Custom-designed Wine, Food, Cultural and Photographic Tours of Spain Organized and Led by Gerry Dawes and Spanish Itinerary Planning

7 Days, 7 Nights: Beyond Paella, A Video Culinary, Wine & Travel Adventure in Valencia & Alicante with Gerry Dawes & Special Guests


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7/26/2004

Food in Navarra

Navarra's Country Cuisine (Stay tuned for an updated version.)

Navarra's country cuisine, talented chefs and lively restaurants are among the best in Spain. They have at their disposal a vast cornucopia of ingredients to draw from: garden-fresh produce such as artichokes, asparagus, beans and red piquillo peppers from the Ribera of southern Navarra; quail, partridge and rabbit from the mountains; trout from the cold, clear mountain streams; fish and shellfish from the nearby Atlantic; excellent artisan cheeses from Roncal in the Pyrenees; and lamb from all across the province.

In addition to the memorable, inexpensive restaurants found in practically every village in Navarra, there are several superb gastronomic temples of Navarrese alta cocina (haute cuisine) and nueva cocina (nouvelle cuisine) in such places as Pamplona, Tafalla and Cintruenigo.

There are scores of classic Navarrese culinary specialties, such as esparragos blancos, fat, white asparagus served with homemade mayonnaise; truchas a la Navarra, trout cooked with a slice of mountain ham; pimientos de piquillo rellenos, delicious triangular-shaped peppers stuffed with brandade, or meat; menestra de verduras, a mélange of young Ribera vegetables; alcachofas con jamón, artichokes cooked with serrano or Ibérico (mountain-cured) ham; pochas, a legendary bean dish cooked with chorizo and quail; and cuajada, a delicious, yogurt-like dessert made from sheep's milk.

Along with the aforementioned reds, one should not miss the excellent, dry rosados. Ernest Hemingway loved these wines so much that he carried them all over Spain during "The Dangerous Summer" of 1959. Try the rosados of Las Campanas (especially Castillo de Javier), Señorio de Sarría, Malón de Echaide, Castillo de Irache and Julián Chivite's superlative Gran Feudo.

Dining

Travel Notes: The country code for Spain is 34, the code for Navarra 948.

Hartza
Juan de Labrit 19 (near the bullring), Pamplona
Phone: 948 22.45.68


Sisters Mari, Manoli and Julia Hartza serve some of Pamplona's best food – traditional Navarrese and Basque dishes using seasonal ingredients – in the elegant dining rooms of a lovely, renovated house accented with antiques and oil paintings. Mari or Manoli will recite the dishes of the day – alubias de Tolosa (red beans); baked fresh fish hake, turbot, sea bream; almejas a la marinera (clams in a wine sauce). Expensive

Europa
Espoz y Mina 11, Pamplona
Phone: 948 22.18.00

One of the top restaurants in Pamplona specializing in classic Navarrese dishes, such as menestra, pochas and ajoarriero (bacalao in a garlicky tomato sauce) as well as sophisticated nouvelle Basque dishes using first-rate ingredients. Expensive, but excellent.


San Ignacio
Avenida San Ignacio 4, Pamplona
Phone: 948 22.18.74

A popular, relatively new, moderately priced Pamplona restaurant serving superb regional cuisine based on top-quality ingredients. Try the cogollas de Tudela con anchoas, lettuce hearts with cured anchovies; calamares a la plancha, grilled squid; or revuelto de ajos frescos con gambas, scrambled eggs with garlic shoots and shrimp. Moderate

Casa Zanito
Rua Mayor 16, Olite
Phone: 948 74.00.02

This restaurant serves Nueva cocina dishes such as hake-filled crêpes with clam sauce and classics such as brick oven-roasted shoulder of goat.

Mesón del Peregrino
Carretera Logroño-Pamplona km 23
Puente la Reina
Phone: 948 34.00.75

High-quality modern cuisine employing top-notch regional ingredients served in a charming, rustic, but elegantly appointed room. Attentive service and a good wine list are hallmarks of owner Angel Cambero's style. He also mixes a mean American Martini.
Moderate to Expensive. Also has a charming hotel.

La Cocina de las Coronas
Calle Pons Sorolla 3, Sos del Rey Católico, Zaragoza
Phone: 948 88.48.08

Located just across the Navarrese border in a stunning village, La Cocina is a charming regional restaurant featuring authentic Aragonese cuisine, which has many dishes related to those of Navarra. Quite good and reasonably priced.

Tubal
Plaza de Navarra 2, Tafalla
Phone: 948 79.08.52

Owned and run by Atxen Jiménez, a woman with the highest standards for cuisine and service, and her son, Chef Nicolas, Michelin one-star Tubal is one of the top-ranked and most elegant restaurants in Navarra. It offers first-rate, sophisticated nueva cocina and artfully prepared renditions of Navarrese classics, always based on the best, freshest ingredients. Tubal has an excellent wine list. Expensive.

Maher
La Ribera 19, Cintruenigo
Phone: 948 81.11.50

This one-star Michelin restaurant, owned by Chef Enrique Martínez, is located in the same town as Bodegas Julián Chivite and offers a fine combination of modern Spanish dishes and beautifully prepared Navarrese classics, including vegetable dishes from La Ribera de Navarra. Reasonably priced for the quality of the dishes served.

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